TY - GEN
T1 - Laboratory observation of breaking criteria of wind-generated deepwater waves
AU - Oh, Sang Ho
AU - Mizutani, Natsuki
AU - Hashimoto, Noriaki
AU - Suh, Kyung Duck
N1 - Copyright:
Copyright 2015 Elsevier B.V., All rights reserved.
PY - 2005/4/1
Y1 - 2005/4/1
N2 - The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, -O.Jg, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for predicting breaking waves under strong wind action.
AB - The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, -O.Jg, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for predicting breaking waves under strong wind action.
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U2 - 10.1142/9789812701916-0033
DO - 10.1142/9789812701916-0033
M3 - Conference contribution
AN - SCOPUS:84950314705
T3 - Proceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference
SP - 428
EP - 440
BT - Proceedings of the 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2004, ICCE 2004
A2 - Smith, Jane McKee
A2 - Smith, Jane McKee
PB - American Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)
T2 - 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2004
Y2 - 19 September 2004 through 24 September 2004
ER -