Laboratory observation of breaking criteria of wind-generated deepwater waves

Sang Ho Oh, Natsuki Mizutani, Noriaki Hashimoto, Kyung Duck Suh

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contribution

1 Citation (Scopus)


The present study describes an experimental investigation of breaking criteria of deepwater wind waves under wind action. In a wind wave flume, waves were generated using different wind speeds and measured at different locations to obtain wave trains of no, intermittent, or frequent breaking. Water particle movement and free surface elevation were measured simultaneously using a PIV system and a wave gauge, respectively. For wind waves, not all the waves measured at a fixed location are breaking waves, and the breaking of a larger wave is not guaranteed. However, the larger the wave height, the larger the probability of breaking. In order to take as many breaking waves as possible for the cases of frequent breaking, we used the waves whose heights were close to the highest one-tenth wave height. The experimental results showed that the geometric or kinematic breaking criteria could not explain the occurrence of breaking of wind waves. On the other hand, the vertical acceleration beneath the wave crest was close to the previously suggested limit value, -O.Jg, when frequent breaking of large waves occurred, indicating that the dynamic breaking criterion would be good for predicting breaking waves under strong wind action.

Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationProceedings of the 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2004, ICCE 2004
EditorsJane McKee Smith, Jane McKee Smith
PublisherAmerican Society of Civil Engineers (ASCE)
Number of pages13
ISBN (Electronic)9789812562982, 9789812562982
Publication statusPublished - Apr 1 2005
Externally publishedYes
Event29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2004 - Lisbon, Portugal
Duration: Sept 19 2004Sept 24 2004

Publication series

NameProceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference
ISSN (Print)0161-3782


Other29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2004

All Science Journal Classification (ASJC) codes

  • Civil and Structural Engineering
  • Ocean Engineering
  • Oceanography


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